The year is coming to an end, and before we all retire on our well-deserved Christmas holiday, I have prepared a little present for you: the skirt pattern "Amana".
The skirt is designed for woven fabrics, has a light bell shape, no darts and a straight waistband.
It is closed at the back with a fine zipper. Basically, you can also use a normal zipper for it and after stitching it in, stitch it all around from the right side. But a seam-fine zipper looks a lot chicker, doesn't it? It's not really difficult either, I'll show you everything step-by-step.
Perhaps you would also like to create the cut according to your own measurements? You only need three measurements for a skirt, give it a try! From now on you will find the item "Skirts" on the "Sizing chart page. Here you can enter the waist and hip circumference and the hip depth and download the measurement set. With this file you can then create the pattern.
But enough of the preface, let's start! First, get the pattern for Amana. Then I'll show you how the skirt is sewn.
I sew my skirt from linen. Basically, all types of textiles without stretch are suitable.
The pattern contains three pieces: the front skirt, the back skirt and the waistband. The front skirt and the waistband are cut on the fabric fold. You need two pieces of the back skirt. You also need a seam-like zipper and some fusible interfacing to stabilize the waistband. Cut the interfacing a few millimeters narrower than the waistband, then you can press it without having it sticking to the ironing board. I'm using a fabric interfacing here. Volume interfacing is not suitable.
Then all cut parts are cast around. Use an overlock or the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine.
First we close the side seams. For this purpose, the two back pieces are placed on the front part right sides together and sewn. We use a normal straight stitch for this. The seam allowance is pressed open.
Then we sew on the waistband and press this seam allowance open.
Tip: If the front and back of your fabric look very similar, draw a marker with tailor's chalk so that you don't get confused at work. I have drawn a large H (hinten = back) and a V (vorne = front) on the back of my cut parts.
Now we are preparing to insert the zipper. First a few small explanations: To ensure that all edges and seams meet exactly later, we sew the two back parts together BEFORE we insert the zipper. Of course, there must be no seam over the zipper itself at the end. That is why the area in which the zipper will later sit is only stapled, i.e. we sew with a very large stitch length. We can then easily remove this seam later.
Take a look at the picture. The waistband is later folded in half. That is why we place the zipper with the top position of the slider at the middle of the waistband. We're going to sew very close to the teeth of the zipper, so unfortunately we can't sew to the very end of the zipper (the bottom line in the picture). At some point the slider is in our way. We finish the stitching 2-3 cm above the lower end (upper line in the picture). From this point we sew the rest of the skirt with a normal, short straight stitch. Please lock the seam thoroughly at the transition point.
The seam allowance is pressed open and the zipper is pinned in the middle. The needles only go through the seam allowance, not through the lower fabric.
In the picture, the top ends of the zipper are folded over. Please do not do this at this step, then it will be easier to access the zipper. The following seams only go to the top of the teeth. After all, we want to fold over the excess waistband after all.
First, we just staystitch the zipper so that it is fixed in place. Use a zipper foot for this. The foot is placed on the left for the right side of the zipper and on the right for the left side. Then we sew the band of the zipper only to the seam allowance. We simply put the rest of the fabric aside.
Now we can tear the stay stitching over the zipper out again. Then we can open the zipper and sew the final seam. Take a close look at the zipper. The edge with the teeth can be folded a little towards the middle and behind it a narrow groove appears. We want to sew along in this groove. Adjust your needle so that it is placed as close as possible to the teehts. Take your time and sew on both sides - again only on the seam allowance - to the point where the slider stops.
Then pull the zipper up and down a few times to try it out.
The hardest part is done!
Now open the zipper again and fold the waistband right sides together. The protruding band of the zipper is now folded towards the seam allowance. Sew a few millimeters next to the seam on the zipper and then turn both corners.
The rest of the waistband is now also folded over and fixed. Then I only sew the seam allowances together. I can't get all the way to the zipper, but the waistband is already sufficiently fixed in place.
Alternatively, you can topstitch the waistband from the right side. Or you sew a bias tape around the seam allowance of the waistband. That would be the luxury version. ;)
There is still the hem. I prefer to sew it on with skirts by hand. You can also fold over the seam allowance and then another 2 cm, press well and topstitch the hem with the machine.
And then - all you have to do is run your new skirt! Have fun and have a nice holiday in advance!