I'm working on some pretty complex patterns and kind of needed a break. So I thought: what is the simplest sewing pattern? Okay, I can think of several things. A skirt with an elastic waistband, for example. Ultimately, it became a blouse with kimono or bat sleeves. No closure, no dividing seams, no attached sleeves. The neckline is finished with a facing, but a bias tape is also possible, then you only have to cut out a single pattern piece.
Hinageshi, (Japanese 雛 罌粟 "corn poppy") is a nice cut for patterned fabrics, I think. You don't have to cut motifs apart.
In fact, Hinageshi is something completely different for me. If I calculate a top pattern for me, the front piece is always significantly wider than the back piece. This is simply because I need more width for the chest at the front. You may have noticed this when you calculated a part in the pattern maker. In the case of tops from the store, the front and back parts are generally the same width. That's what happens when you create the pattern for a rather small bust.
If you are built rather curvy, this does not fit perfectly, because the width just does not sit where you need it.
Now a kimono sleeve is nothing more than an extended shoulder seam. And of course it has to be the same length at the front and back, after all the parts are sewn together at this point. But this only works properly if the front and back parts are of the same width. Otherwise, one of the sleeves will get a very strange angle when it is connected to the sideline.
So with Hinageshi, the front and back parts are identical except for the neckline. For myself, I have to say: the blouse is not quite flattering for curvy women. In my case there is also a hollow back, so it is hard to avoid wrinkles in the back.
But it's really incredibly comfortable without being a T-shirt again. I think I'll be happy to wear it. In fact, I could, for example, imagine a casual dressing gown with such a cut. A belt in the waist then provides more shape. That would be worth a try.
Okay, long talk short meaning, would you like to try Hinageshi? Then get the pattern and read on how Hinageshi is sewn.
Hinageshi is designed for thin, light fabrics such as woven cotton or viscose.
Cut the main cut twice. On the front part, you can use the front slip as a template for the cutout. Place the two parts on the right side of the fabric (i.e. the beautiful side that will later be on the outside), sew the shoulder and side seams of the blouse together and overcast them. Instead of an overlock, you can also use a zigzag seam. French seams are usually a good idea for thin fabrics, here they would not work well due to the tight curve under the arms.
In addition to the two facing pieces, cut a thin, iron-on insert and cut it slightly smaller than the actual facings. So nothing sticks to the ironing board when ironing on.
Then overcast the shoulders on both facings and sew them together. The seam is pressed open and the outer edge is then also overcasted.
Then pin the facing right to right on the neckline, sew it on and also overcast this edge.
Then a small but important step is missing: the seam allowance is sewn onto the facing. Sew close to this line with about 3 mm distance along the seam edge. Then the cut-out is pressed thoroughly and you will see that the facing folds almost inwards by itself, so that no seam can be seen from the outside.
You can sew the facing on the shoulder seams with a few hand stitches so that the facing does not fold out.
Now all you have to do is sew the sleeves and hem. First fold in the seam allowance, and then again 2cm. Iron once and topstitch well, and your Hinageshi is ready!
What do you say to such a curly cut without a lot of frills? Do you already have something in your closet or is it something new for you?